Exhibition Highlights the Role of Jewish Delis in American Culture

The Capital Jewish Museum in Washington, D.C., recently opened an exhibition titled “I’ll Have What She’s Having,” organized by the Skirball Cultural Center in Los Angeles. Launched in May 2024, the exhibition delves into the cultural significance of Jewish delicatessen in America. Named after the famous line from the film “When Harry Met Sally,” the exhibition showcases the role of delis as key vehicles of Ashkenazi Jewish life in the United States, beginning with early immigrant communities.

Jewish delis emerged in the late 19th century, with the largest early wave occurring between 1880 and 1924 as over 2 million Jewish immigrants settled in the U.S. These establishments combined food traditions from eastern and central Europe with local American ingredients, introducing iconic dishes like pastrami on rye, matzo ball soup, and pickles. Katz’s Delicatessen in New York, established in 1888, serves as a notable example and holds the title of the oldest continuously operating deli in the country.

The exhibition includes historic menus, neon signs, advertising, and clips from popular culture that feature delis, such as scenes from “Seinfeld” and “The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel.” Curator Cate Thurston, speaking from Los Angeles, described the deli as a “secular Jewish space” that fuses kosher and non-kosher traditions and serves as a cultural pillar in Jewish American life.

Additionally, the exhibition tracks the history and evolution of delis from their heyday to their adaptation in contemporary settings. It also highlights establishments like David’s Brisket House in Brooklyn, reflecting how delis have adapted to diverse local communities.

“I’ll Have What She’s Having” runs until August 20, providing visitors with a comprehensive look at the Jewish deli’s significant role in shaping American culture and cuisine.